If I had to choose between butter or margarine, my gut instinct would go with butter. Because it’s real. But then I don’t eat much of the stuff anyway.
My spread of choice is avocado or, occasionally, a homemade hommus (or both, together). As for cooking fats, I can’t go past extra virgin olive oil. To which I sometimes add a dollop of ghee or coconut oil. Or a few drops of toasted sesame oil. Depending on what I’m cooking. And for baking, I mostly use coconut, almond or macadamia nut oil.
So why bring up the ‘butter versus margarine issue’ then?
Because I saw this article in The Age this week (see myth #3). At first it made me angry. And then I thought, is there something I don’t know about? While I am a (non-practicing) pharmacist, I am not, after all, a dietitian or a nutritionist. So I set out to look for some answers – and evidence.
A quick literature search in PubMed (some results here, here and here) explained why the Heart Foundation and many dietitians in Australia recommend margarine (that have minimal trans fats) over butter – it has to do with cholesterol. Studies have shown that soft margarine (which has ~15% saturated fat) reduces levels of ‘bad’ (LDL) cholesterol. Whereas butter, with around 50% saturated fat, increases it. Now, this did challenge my real food philosophy.
But despite this evidence, I have decided (for me) I would choose (organic) butter over margarine. There are many reasons why:
- No matter how I look at it, margarine is a processed food. It’s made by taking a fat that’s normally a liquid at room temperature (i.e. an unsaturated oil), and changing it’s structure so it becomes a solid, butter-like substance. And, as with many other processed, man-made foods, I just don’t know how margarine will affect my overall health in the long-term.
- I take a holistic view on health, rather than focusing on just a single aspect – in this case, cholesterol. Which brings me to my next point:
- All my food choices matter. If I eat mainly packaged, processed foods, with not many fresh fruits and vegetables, I don’t think eating butter or margarine would make much difference to my health.
- My cholesterol level is not an issue. Last time I had it checked – though, it was a while ago – my total cholesterol was 4.3 mmol/L (and I haven’t had margarine in years).
- Butter, being a wholefood, naturally has fat-soluble vitamins (and it may have other health benefits, too). These vitamins, however, need to be added to margarine.
But, as I’ve said before, I rarely eat butter (I only buy ethical organic butter occasionally to make ghee). And, again, I have a few reasons for this:
- Unfortunately, butter being a dairy product is not very real or ethical these days.
- I don’t have an active lifestyle. I’m a writer. I sit most of the day. It goes with the job. And doing 30–60 minutes of exercise 5 days of the week is not enough to cut the (saturated) fat.
- I have a couple of autoimmune conditions.
- My choices of fat are not just limited to butter. The fats I eat are mostly unsaturated – and healthier. They’re also sourced from wholefoods. And I mix it up for variety and nutrition.

In a nutshell, I looked at the whole picture – what I eat, my activity levels and my overall health, not just cholesterol – before deciding what I would choose. And a wholefood always wins. Using a processed food to ‘fix’ only one aspect of health (without looking at the real cause) is a band-aid approach in my opinion.
This is a tricky and contentious topic. So I did ask for other opinions, and here are some responses from twitter and facebook. @tammois sums it up well: Ultimately, I think it’s hard to go wrong with ‘eat whole foods, not too much of one thing’.
What has your experience been with butter and/or margarine?
I’ve sometimes wondered this myself. I use margarine on food where I want it’s moistening quality, but I don’t actually taste it so much, and where the low spreadability of real butter is a problem (like sandwiches), but prefer butter for cooking and where I can really taste it (like in baked potatoes).
This is partly a health choice I suppose, but as we’re talking such a small part of my diet, really it’s about the taste. I feel we can over-complicate our food choices – for me it’s all about variety and what makes my body feel good!
Definitely Organic Butter for me……. Once upon a time I used to be super scared of fat but things have changed for me. Nowadays I eat way more “good” fat than ever before (avocado, coconut oil and sometimes butter depending) plus my boys need good sources of fat for their brain development so I don’t hesitate putting a dab of butter on their sandwich or corn if they ask for it. If people knew of or witnessed the process involved in making margarine I am certain they would not eat it. In my opinion margarine is just wrong!
I prefer avocado or if I’m feeling ‘naughty’ Lurpak is my butter. It makes great pastries, being French
My thoughts – neither are particularly “healthy”, so to me it’s a case of what’s the lesser of two evils rather than one being ultimately better than the other, so reduce the kinds of foods you need to put butter/margarine on. Have a little of what you prefer, small quantities, not every day and rethink how you’re eating overall.
Personally I like tahini in wraps and now tend to used coconut oil the rare times I make sweet things. But I’m not a huge eater of toast or sandwiches. I’m relatively dairy intolerant but can cope with small amounts of butter (the whey that’s removed in the process takes out most of the lactose), where as so many margarines have added milk products I almost always react.
I like your approach, Gill. (And it’s great to have another naturopth’s viewpoint!
)Tahini is a great option, like avo. I don’t know why these aren’t suggested instead of margarine (and butter). I’m actually all ‘tahinied’ out at the moment from bliss balls. But still use hulled tahini im my hommus. I know you’re doing a vegan thing at the moment, but ghee has no lactose and all milk solids (including casein) are removed. I generally reserve it for dhal (just a tablespoon in the whole pot). It’s my favourite way to enjoy it.
Well said Lesh.
Choosing butter over margarine (or vice versa) is only one of hundreds of decisions we make every week that can have a positive or negative effect on our short and long term health. It’s important to look at the total picture (e.g. diet, lifestyle, genetics) when determining what is best for an individual.
Hi Kaye, great to see you here and to get a naturopath’s thoughts on this topic
. There are, indeed, so may factors to take into account. And I also wanted to highlight that butter and margarine are not the only options.
It absolutely has to be butter. If for no other reason than I need to enjoy each mouthful I consume. Have you ever tried margarine?
They can pretty it up any way they like – it still tastes dreadful…
Thank you for a great article.x
Yay, another butter lover! I have tried margarine, but is was so long ago that I can’t remember what it tastes like. And, I agree, it doesn’t matter what health benefits it is supposed to have, if you do the right thing by your body, you won’t need to subject it to margarine.
Hello!
You’re more considered, my view is this:
Nutritionists can pull a wholefood food item apart and say whatever. Not listening! Don’t care!
*lah lah lah lah lah!*
I know I feel absolutely *blessed* and notice the flavour and mouthfeel if I have coffee and toast for breakfast. That’s damn fine milk, damn fine bread and glorious butter.
Life’s too short for margarine.
Hi Sharon, yes, I am considered – can’t help it, must be the health science background that I have!
Re pulling a food apart nutritionally, I believe that’s where ‘we’ have gone wrong. Real food should not be discussed in components. They come in their ‘packages’ for a reason. One part working organically with the other. And I didn’t discuss taste, as there’s no debate there – butter wins hands down.
Hahaha, I think that really sums it up well: Life’s too short for margarine.
I take butter over margarine any day. It’s partly because butter is real, but also because it simply tastes better. Lowering cholestrol or preventing heart disease comes in my book from eating healthy, real food regularly and working out.
Hi Arjan! Great to hear you agree
. Yes, it’s common sense isn’t it – the whole exercise and healthy eating thing? I just don’t get margarine. I don’t even remember what it tastes like!